Mixture of Gaia Nazca NC-005 (warm light grey) with a few drops of E7 Primary yellow to form the 3rd layer. Applied randomly on the model.
Also applied 2 layers of transparent yellow on the red color area to make it more orange with a touch of yellow on the edge.
Finally, mixed a few drops of black with the 3rd layer color and applied to the joints, edges ...
Ready for the rest of decals and weathering !
First one of Kotobukiya kit - 1/24 soldier.
Applied the skull decals and a few of the relatively large decals on the body, required some additives, softener, cuts and hot air, and lots of patience !
Trial build before and after the 2nd color tone (GSI #308) applied.
2nd layer is airbrushed with PS-771, with less than 10 psi, applied couple of thin and quick layers on top of the base color.
Continue with the shield work.
After applied decals on the red part, did a check under sunlight and found that the premium red surface is far away from even.
Sanded lightly with Tamiya sponge #1500 and then #3000 on the paint surface and even on the decals ! Got the surface smoothen and not damage the decals ! however, there are couple of small lines on the edge showing white (or grey) color. Ignore it for time being, and applied two layers of GX114 mat clear.
Painted the white area with TS-26 spray can. Lets wait for couple of days before weathering to hide the defects.
Built the lower half without the golden parts.
It is slightly taller than the RG RX-78-2.
Added some details while cleaning the seam lines on the backpack.
Original :
Modified :
Trial build with blu-tack after applied a layer of GSI #1200 primer for final check.
Found some area with uneven primer and some seam lines still around. Applied liquid putty and sanded again. drilled a pair of 0.3mm holes on both feet for wires to go through, sharpened some panel lines one more time.
Ready for next step.
Been slowing down on the project, and slowly working on the legs and feet.
Applied a layer of GX114 matt clear on after panel lines and decals.
Built up the inner structure of legs and feet.
Slow progress, applied GSI 1200 primer on hands and arms.
First time to config the new Flysky Noble Pro with FGrS4 v2 receiver, and it is on the old Team C T4 buggy to replace the Sanwa radio.
Two things to note immediately :
1. The touch screen and on-screen icons are easy to operate on Noble Pro, make Sanwa M17 a 2nd class radio !
2. I need to upgrade the receiver before I can bind it with the radio ! don't know why, but both receiver upgrade and binding process works really well, with a voice to confirm "it is done"
Hasegawa has released a few nice Ma. K. over the years, better chance to find them in Japan online shop.
This is a 1/20 Kuster from Wave. In my opinion, Kuster has a tank-alike style, with some connection to Starwars' AT-ST but more realistic presentation.
It is the Gacha series, beside it is all packed inside an "egg", it has a great details and about 30+ parts to form the 1/35 powered suit. Also comes with a piece of water-slide decals sheet.
Unlike the Hasegawa 1/35 kit, its hands and legs are one-piece design, and the main body is front and back instead of left and right assemble.
Looking forward to build both kits side by side !
Compared to the Hasegawa Prowler.
Glued the basic body, hands and legs. Then sanded the seam lines before filling any gaps on the main body. The material and shape remind me of a ping pong ball.
Noticed that the panel lines are shallow and thin, will have to deepen and sharpen some of them after sanding.
Punctured one by one, front wheel gone few weeks back and today turn for rear wheel.
They have last around 3,000km on the F10.
Go back to German's GP tubular.
One of the small 1/35 powered suit which came with the Lunadiver Stingray kit.
The two most recent shaft drive chassis, the last Evo7 was released in 2017, I guess Evo8 is due soon !
