A800MMX #3

Complete the build and test fit with LiHV shortly battery

Electronics installed

Sanwa previous generation servo, HobbyWing HeRun 2.0 ESC and Trinity D4 13.5T motor. They are all 10 years ago (or older) product. Put it on for blinky setup. 

What I did differently is the position of the receiver - it is on the battery side, behind the battery, also plan to install the ESC capacitor on the battery side.

Last is to fit the bodyshell - it is a Hyrax

A800MMX #2

Completed the build of rear suspension

Still a long way to go

Awesomatix A800 MMX #1

After warming up by BD11 and 12, Xray X4 2022', TA08R, IF-14-2 Mid ... I am finally starting what I supposed to start, but delay due to the lack of modern car experience - A800 MMX from Awesomatix.

It is not new, it is the product in 2019. I would say, the "mother" of modern TC as since then, all the brand all the chassis are going that direction ... 

I wanted to start this project for long, and I got this car since it is released. But my mind stop me - I do not understand the modern TC setup and how it is supposed to be setup. I would not be able to enjoy the build, the tuning, and perhaps, waste the kit too.

Therefore, I picked up BD11 in 2023, spent lot of time to understand it, build slowly, drive and tune, and learn. Followed by BD12, which is similar, and then Xray X4 22' which I got the first batch during Covid time ... I even build a TA08R just in case I missed something from Tamiya, followed by the Infinity IF-14-2 with mid conversion kit. 

I have drove BD11, BD12 and TA08R so far, and also learn how to the use ArrowMax 4D setup tool. 

Now, I believe, I am ready for the MMX.

Read the manual, rear online material on building tips .... and I decided to buy the alloy chassis too - mine was MMX which comes with 2.2mm carbon graphite chassis.

Build started with steering kunckles, front spool, rear gear diff, bulkheads, motor mount, universals ...

Parts are small, and packaging is clear but no label or order, require to look for bags and bags to find the right parts or screws. But once you accept this, nothing really messy. Screws type are limited, shims type are limited, build is smooth indeed, and just very different in term of how it is constructed compared to other modern TC, eg, its universal joints, there is no use of grab screw at all, it has a different mechanism to secured all the parts together. Another example is the shocks, it is completely different than any other shocks I have built from 1/27 to 1/5.

So far I have spent 2 hours each day for 5 days to reach this stage. 

Look at its lower arm and compared to BD11/12, A800 MMX arm are much thinner, there is no metal part to add on to it, a single plastic part was to add which serve 3 purposes - to connect the ball from steering kunckle, to connect the shock, to connect the anti-roll bar. I lost count how many plastic and metal parts I have to installed on the BD11/12 arms ....

Another interesting design - the gear diff - it was designed to have an exit hole for the diff oil to bleed out, like how we bleed traditional shock oil. and then use a simple mechanism to seal the exit and make a perfectly oil filled gear diff. 

Nice and clear engineering. 

I am not sure how this car run, even only building it, I think it is an fulfilling journey.

If you love RC and somehow you are an engineer, you would truely appreciate this kit. 

There is no regret.

RC10 Masami version

More RC10 ...

Team Infinity IF-14-II Mid #5 (Completed)

IF-14-2 Mid built is completed with a HW 5.5T and Team Power V5BT ESC

Found that it can fit on the Lens bodyshell which I used on Yokomo BD11/12 chassis, front bodypost fits perfectly, while a new pair of holes are needed just before the rear wing.

All done except basic setup, can do test run soon. This is the 5th modern TC I have done since last year. Learnt a bit of the setup and driving of what I have missed in past decade.

Fitting ESC :

Soldering done and electronics installed :

Infinity IF14 Speciale

Fresh from the factory !

AE TC8

Mine came, finally

It is the steel chassis version

PR Racing V4TR #4

Tested run the kit on open car park with thread tyres which is larger in diameter. I have not setup the ESC profile, so whatever it is default from the factory. With an LRP x12 10.5T motor, top speed is good but it slows down after a few mins, feel like some heat protection kit in from ESC. From 21/77T I have tried 23/77T and situation remains. 

Decide to let the system cool down first before any further testing.

This time, going back to 21/77T, changed to a set of Proline bald tyres. Overheat protection seems not kicking in so early and managed to run 5 mins. 

After the initial test, decided to check what is set inside the ESC.

Not surprise that the heat protection is 95c, my only other option is to disable it. So I did. 

Also saw an option HB = 70%, I take it is referring tyo hyper boost which advance the timing of the motor. I think 70% is a bit too high, I will keep it for now and adjust it on the fly in next test run.

Finally, I am sure a motor cooling fan is required, no matter what. 

Metal Chassis

While Axon TC10/4 demonstrated its capability recently in both eSIC and JMRCA by its team drivers, I am yet to start my TC10/3. 

Decide to start with a metal chassis instead of the kit's carbon chassis. It is hard to find its original alloy chassis and I got the 3rd party product instead.

At the same time, I finally sourced the original Awesomatix steel chassis conversion kit for A800R.

This item is rare and expensive !

TA08R debut

Debut run of TA08R

Initial first run found that the chassis is very willing to turn, and sometime over turn

Reduced steering EPA and continue for 2nd pack, also applied tyre additive and on warmer for 6 mins. 

It was a very hot afternoon, the chassis has traction roll in corners before long straight. This might be partially due to the front tires is "sitting in" after initial run, and with some material gone, the front ride height seems to be much lower than original setup and cause the traction roll. 

Next improvement is to reset on ride height, and maybe increase roll-center in front to make the chassis roll less during cornering. 

 

Team Infinity IF-14-II Mid #4

PRS installed