Bodyshell for IF15

Trying Bitty Design liquid mask instead of masking tape. 4 layers of liquid mask with a brush. And sprayed with both Sparmax Flyer SR and Iwata HP-BCS using Faskolor, final coat with a few layers of Tamiya white (spray can) to protect the paints from nitro. 

Fujimi 1/24 Ferrari 355 #2

 After working hard on the painting and gloss clear, seems the outcome isn't good. It could be due to the primer isn't so smooth ...

Use GSI paint remover to start over again, 2 bottles in a zip lock bag, wait for 30 mins :

This time use GSI 1500 white primer instead of Tamiya one, diluted 1:3 with Mr Color levelling thinner, with Hansa 381 at 25psi. Surface is much smoother this time. 

Followed by 6 wet layers of GSI #158, diluted 1:3.5 to 4 with Gaia T01/T08 mixture (9:1) with Tamiya HG 3 airbrush at 25psi. 

Fantom EP-4WD body shell

 

Model Factory Hiro 1/20 Lotus 99T

 

Kyosho Re-release Fantom

The build is pretty standard and straight forward. Make sure you fit the body shell body wiring the ESC and motors / battery as there are not much space. I did not use the Kyosho brushless system which is designed to mount on the underneath of the upper deck. Use software and thin wires and make use of the limited opening on the upper deck for the wires. 

I have removed 6 links from the chain and it fit pretty well, also fit in a Low CG Lipo which leave enough clearance for the chain on the bottom side. 

Tested run today - it is very stable and can push hard when the pan car is exiting corner !

Removed 5 links from the chain, clearly not enough.

Removed 6 links, just good for initial run-in.

After initial run, the chain is a little bit loosen, which is expected. And it does not leave any mark on the upper deck .... yet. 

When boys see pretty girl ...

The pretty one :

The boys :

Garmin Edge 1000 - power button broken and fixed

I am sure I am not the only one in the universe who experienced the rubber button damaged on Edge 1000 cycling computer. I have used mine since late 2016,  but it is not my only head, and they all share the workload. I would say I used my 520 more than the 1000 over all these years. Well, the Edge 1000 decided to fail first, however, it is only a small fix required.
See the first pic about the damage :

The key part is the rubber which contact the physical button and now I have to re-create the contact point.

Clear up the residual rubber around the physical buttons and ensure there are around 8x5 to 8x6mm open window. 

Next I use a small round shape plastic with diameter of about 7mm and height about 5mm, inserted into the open window and tested to operate the on/off of the unit. It works great. 

Finally, applied glue which is elastic after dry, something like those you use to fix your shoes. Applied around the residual rubber, the gap and slightly over the "new" plastic button. Wait for a complete dry, put back the silicon cover. 

It is done.