IF15 setup change

 

Back to setup station, reduced front caster to 4 degree

Droop 0/4.2mm, camber -2/-3.5 degree, front toe out 1 and rear toe in 3 degree

Re condition the tyres too, ride height 5.8/7mm

This week track time

Ran Axon TC10/3 with blinky 13.5T motor. With a slight change of setup, it runs more stable and predictable, yield more consistent laptime.

Also spent 6 tanks with the IF15 after last touch about 4 months ago. Understand the chassis more. Post run, adjusted a few setting (reduce front caster ... etc) and get ready for next track day.

Axon TC10/3 First setup 13.5 Blinky

 

ARC A10 23’ 17.5 Blinky setup - 29 Aug 2026

Another track day with ARC A10 23’

Today main changes are the tyres - using Team Powers 36M v2 and rear gear diff oil changed to 7k from 3k.

Wing is a bit unsecured from the bodyshell, added a wide wheel hex shim to keep it in place

Setup change : rear diff oil is now 7k cts, and front steering EPA is 26 degrees max.

Overall lap time (single / overall 5 / 6/ 8 mins) has been improved from 15 Aug setup

Still, cannot beat single lap below 17 sec.

A10 23’ minor fix and back to setup board

After weekend practice, found that one of the ball end on rear anti-roll bar “pop in”

Moved it back to the right place, back to setup station and get ready for next track day

ARC A10 23’ 17.5 Blinky setup - 15 Aug 2026

New layout for EP today, setup the A10 23’ and run a few packs with used Sweep D36 MX (medium hard insert)

Overall, I think 3 degree rear toe in match with my driving better than 2 or 2.5

I can push a bit more as usual 

How to run faster with 17.5T blinky mode - tips #1

I have setup the ARC A10 23’ for 17.5T blinky mode. Since local track re open in end June I have been trying to dial in the car to run on the new flat surface.

I used a HobbyWing JustStock 17.5T 4pole motor, and gear at 3.23.

First pack I can run relatively consistently in range of 20.x sec per lap, for 8 mins. 

While a local racer said that same 17.5T motor he can make 19.x sec lap !

A quick suggestion from him after looking at my car, cut away the material from the front and side bodyshell to reduce drag.

I tested it as told. 

Here is what I have done and also sit the front bodyshell lower by one hole on the body post. 

2nd and 3rd pack result :

Bingo !

The car is more willing to turn and best laptime improve by 0.6 sec

The chassis is a bit more “alive” and I cannot yield the same consistency. Laps are ranging from 19.x to 21.x sec. That said, the mod does improve the laptime but it also make the car more active. I will need to adjust other area to improve consistency.

ARC A10 23’ setup

Harder spring in the rear is the way to go …

Yokomo YZ-870 re release built #2

Build was paused for unknown reason since 2024.

Chassis basic was done by then, quickly selected electronics and do the wiring, cut and fit in the bodyshell and under-tray.

Tekin 10.5T motor, with shorty pack, a PowerHD 20kg servo and Viper VTX10 ESC

Motor soldering posts was a bit too high - open a small slit on bodyshell to let the body sit in

Might as well open another slit to let hot air go from the back ...

Tyres are glued

Next is to build shocks, fix servo link, paint the shell.